Watchuseek Watch Blog

Friday, May 18, 2012

Three go to China: De Bethune, HAUTLENCE and Celsius X VI II

Three well respected Swiss brands that each share a passion for innovation, creation and quality, HAUTLENCE, De Bethune and Celsius X VI II, decided rather than exhibiting in China individually it would make more sense to join forces and stage three high profile events in Beijing and Chengdu which took place from April 23rd to 28th 2012.

The three independent brands met Chinese VIPs and Press at the China Auto Show in Beijing, the most important car show in China.

Following this high-profile exhibition, two private events took place in the fast developing city of Chengdu. 60 carefully selected collectors attended interactive dinners where Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune, Edouard Meylan, CEO of Celsius X VI II and Bertrand Meylan, General Manager of HAUTLENCE Asia presented their brands and shared their passion with the collectors through different forums and workshops. The audience was captivated by the mechanical marvels and unique visions that were presented.

About the three brands

De Bethune was winner of the "Aiguille d'Or" Geneva Grand Prix 2011, the supreme award honouring the best timepiece of the year for the DB28 model. De Bethune presented two limited editions of this iconic model. Celebrating the brand’s tenth anniversary, Pierre Jacques also took this opportunity to introduce and share both the technical and artistic aspects of De Bethune's innovations, including their specifically mechanical and horological features.

HAUTLENCE was founded in 2004 named after one of the cradles of watchmaking. Instilling a new dynamic into the art of watchmaking, HAUTLENCE presented its in-house masterpiece the HL2.1 (half-trailing hours and retrograde minutes) and the new HLQ Classic collection equipped with an in-house jumping hour and retrograde minute calibre.

Celsius X VI II is a cutting edge pioneer brand creating complex mechanical pieces of art. Celsius took the opportunity to present its first mechanical mobile phone: LeDIX. Three versions were on view at these events, including a unique Diamond variation and the first mobile phone made from carbon fibre. Each piece takes six months to produce and features more than 600 mechanical parts.

The decision to tour China together was a tremendous success for all three brands. It gave HAUTLENCE, De Bethune and Celsius X VI II the chance to build awareness while sharing their passion with a receptive crowd. Future similar joint road shows are already being planned.

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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Natalie Portman helps Richard Mille with Free The Children charity

Richard Mille has unveiled another new “friend of the brand”. The line-up is already stellar; it includes the likes of tennis ace Rafael Nadal, the long driving golfer Bubba Watson and racecar driver Felipe Masa. Now Oscar winning actress Natalie Portman joins this elite group. She put in an appearance at an exclusive dinner at New York City’s St. Regis Hotel.

Natalie Portman won the Oscar and Golden Globe for her lead role in 2010′s thriller Black Swan. Her glittering watch is the Richard Mille ladies’ model, the RM 007 Automatic. The watch has both a natural rubber and synthetic strap options.

The reason for the lavish celebrity filled dinner was announced by Richard Mille. The celebrity firned of the brand will be working with him to develop a limited-edition timepiece proceeds from which will would support the international charity, Free The Children.

Richard Mille regularly gets involved with philanthropic causes, often in cooperation with its partners.

Richard Mille watches have come to the support of Jackie Chan’s Dragon Heart Foundation, which aids children in remote areas; the Rafa Nadal Foundation, which provides opportunities for socially disadvantaged young people; and Sentebale, founded by HRH Prince Harry, which supports orphans and vulnerable children in the African nation of Lesotho.

Natalie Portman is working with visionary ‘Tree of Life’ director Terence Malick on two movies, Knight of Cups and Lawless, and will reprise her role as Jane Foster in Thor 2, a sequel to last year’s Thor and this summer’s The Avengers.

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Wednesday, May 16, 2012

JEANRICHARD Highlands hands on

The Sowind Group recently sent us a JeanRichard Highlands watch to test drive. Watchuseek supremo Ernie Romers donned a crisp white shirt, slipped the watch on his wrist and got to work with his camera.

They say every picture tells a thousand words, and when you consider there are 17 pictures in this series, theoretically that would be 17,000 words, but life is too short. So let's content ourselves with some of Ernie’s concise and expert observations. Ernie has tried on more watches than most of us have put on clean socks, so be sure to take notes.

On first trying the watch, Ernie found the 47mm sand blasted stainless steel case with the 30mm dial took a little time to get used to. The excellent rotating bezel is wider than the case at "6" and "12" which makes turning it easy and comfortable.

The watch itself, with its handsome fabric strap, is very comfortable to wear and, at just 11.96mm in height, its streamlined design enables the JR Highlands to slip unobtrusively under the sleeve. The deployant strap buckle with its pushers on either side makes it nice and easy to unbuckle the watch.

Ernie didn’t dim the lights to take pictures of the luminosity, but having tested the JR Highlands watch in the dark, he can confirm that the luminescent Arabic numerals and hands really pop out at you, and can be read easily at a glance.

Essentially, in Ernie’s opinion it’s all good, it works, it comes together very nicely, and yet…maybe it lacks that extra magic ingredient, that extra little design tweak that transforms it from the good to the iconic. However, the Highlands watch is sure to evolve so we look forward to see it in its next incarnation.

Further comments from Ernie are featured under the pictures:

Two boxes, one contains the watch (flat box), the other contains the original box the watch will come in if pruchased from an AD. This one was sent to me by JEANRICHARD for review purposes only.

The instruction booklet and the delivery certificate.

The watch, safely sealed in plastic with an extra strap.

The original box.

Out of the box and onto the wrist, the JEANRICHARD Highlands.

The watch wears comfortable with a shirt. It easily slides under the sleeve.

Two pushers on each side opens the deployant. Nicely done and great design.

I have to admit, I needed to get used to the case design (46mm) and the - what seems - small looking dial (30mm).

The rotating bezel is wider than the case at "6" and "12" which makes turning it quite comfortable. Lots of grip.

On the inner metal of the deployant "JP" is engraved. I did not take off the blue protective plastic.

The JR 1000 movement, Cotes de Geneve and nicely engraved rotor with the origins of JR.

Stange comparison, but couldn't resist. I took the IWC off to put on the JR. Will it replace it? No, it is a different league, where the IWC is the more complicated watch, having the 7-days power reserve. But the JEANRICHARD did grow on me, a lot. And that is something I would not have imagined when I took it out of the box and put it on my wrist. The case design, the way JR managed to mount the rotating bezel to it, and the comfortable way to turn it, the dial and the hands, all comes to place with this watch. And last but not least, it wears extremely comfortable, due to the height, but also due to the great strap that comes with the watch. Thumbs up for JEANRICHARD's Highlands for me.

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Tuesday, May 15, 2012

It's only rock 'n' roll: Hublot Skull Bang LE watch

The Skull Bang has been specially developed by Hublot for the brand's friend and long-term partner in Paris, the flamboyant M. Laurent Picciotto, a man whose flair has made him a legend in the watchmaking world, and one of the first to demonstrate his belief in Hublot by opening the Swiss watch brand's first boutique in the world in 2007 at 271 Rue Saint Honoré in Paris.

This rock and roll offering from Hublot, known simply as the Skull Bang is playful and slightly tongue-in-cheek.

Hublot describes it as 'the perfect fusion of a rebel spirit with a deft and daring sense of elegance'. The skull represents 'Memento mori' the symbol of the transience of life which reminds us how fragile and brief is our time on this planet, and that we must live each moment to the full.

The Skull Bang runs on an in-house HUB 1112 automatic movement with a 42 hour power reserve and represents a more edgy yet more streamlined design from Hublot, using an all-black theme for a strong, moody finish.

The watch is limited to just 100 pieces and is already a collector's item. Key details include water resistance up to 50 metres, faceted, diamond-polished hands and a black PVD steel deployant buckle.

Specifications

Reference 511.CM.1110.VR.PIC12
Series Limited to 100 pieces numbered from 000/100 to 100/100
Case: "Classic Fusion" Diameter 45 mm, polished and satin-finished black ceramic
End-pieces Satin-finished black ceramic
Bezel: Satin-finished black ceramic 6 o'clock -12 o'clock
6 H-shaped countersunk black PVD titanium screws
Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Bezel: lug Black composite resin
Crown: Polished black ceramic with Hublot logo
Case-back: Polished black ceramic
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflective treatment
Black "Skull Bang" transfer, transparent skull outline on a back background, through which the movement can be seen.
Water resistance: 50 metres
Dial: Black galvanic sunburst Black "skull" transfer
Hands: Faceted, diamond-polished, skeleton, black galvanic
Movement: HUB 1112 automatic movement
No. of components: 63 (Jewels: 21)
Date Window at 3 o'clock
Oscillating weight Openworked with black PVD coating, tungsten segment
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours
Strap Black leather strap stitched onto black rubber
Clasp Black PVD steel deployant buckle

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Monday, May 14, 2012

Ernst Benz by John Varvatos Limited Edition ChronoScope

John Varvatos’ love for high quality timepieces clearly shines through in this new limited edition series from the versatile lifestyle designer. In partnership with watchmaker Leonid Khankin of Swiss watch brand Ernst Benz, the Vintage White and Olive are two standout watches.

Varvatos, whose designs include men's footwear, belts, eyewear and fragrances, has limited the watches to just 250 pieces each.

Individually numbered, the Ernst Benz by John Varvatos Limited Edition ChronoScope features contrast finishing with brushed and polished stainless steel. The watches adhere closely to Varvatos’ design aesthetic of ‘perfectly imperfect’. The unique dials feature sepia luminous numerals complimented by a distinctive set of hands inspired by a mid-century gauge.

The striking 47mm watch shares the same level of construction craftsmanship as Ernst Benz’s Great Circle Collection.

Both watches are powered by the trusty Valjoux 7750 self winding day/date chronograph movement with a power reserve of around 50 days.
Exotic skin straps including crocodile and bison, with Varvatos signed buckles have been produced to compliment the new dial colours.

Available exclusively at John Varvatos stores nationwide, the Vintage White and Olive are now being released exclusively this month in John Varvatos stores in the U.S. Retailing at US$6,800, they follow on from the first two highly regarded releases of the design partnership, the Vintage Black and Anthracite dials.

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Friday, May 11, 2012

Moon watching: Schaumburg MooN Collection

MooN Landscape

MooN Landscape reverse

The "MooN" - as opposed to just plain ‘Moon’ Collection is a series of beautifully realised watches by German brand Schaumburg. There are several watches exploring the moon theme. The movements used were supplied by noted German watchmaker Martin Braun and he even has watches remarkably similar to the Schaumburg MooN 2 in his collection.

MooN 1

MooN 1 at night

Schaumburg describes the watches as a mechanical high-tech moon-phase-watch of the superlative. The display is luminescent and depicts the moon cycle of the northern and southern hemisphere with a maximum divergence of only one day in 122.5 years.

MooN 2

A simple lunar-phase-watch measures one moon cycle with 275 days. To keep the lunar-phase-watch precise a very complicated wheel work is required.
The MooN Landscape Hand Made features a 43mm stainless steel case with solid sterling silver hand engraved dial. Each individual serial number is hand engraved on the dial. The MooN Lanscape is accurate to one day every 122.5 years.

Meteorite

The dials of the MooN Collection including MooN 1, MooN 2, MooN Landscape, MooN Galaxy Perpetual MooN and Meteor are available in four variations: Black, white, cloisonné enamel designed with the signs of the zodiac or even with a real meteorite dial whose material originates from a desert region in Gambia.

Perpetual MooN

The cases are 43 mm in size, conical at the bottom with well-formed lugs for 22mm straps. The band attachments are also screwed in, as is the massive case back.

MooN Galaxy

The watches were first displayed at Baselworld and created quite a stir, but feelings are a little mixed on the Watchuseek website with some finding the watch faces ugly. In fact one forum contributor felt that after a couple of beers the face on the MooN Landscape dial might start whispering evil commands! Prices and specifications are listed belo.

Specifications and prices

ref. moon I
case: steel, diameter 43 mm, height 12,4 mm, 5 atm, sapphire glass
movement: manufacture caliber sw-11, automatic, swiss made
functions: hour, minute, date, moon phase
band: 22 mm, leather, folding clasp

ref. moon II
case: steel pvd, diameter 43 mm, height 12,4 mm, 5 atm, sapphire glass
movement: manufacture caliber sw-11, automatic, swiss made
functions: hour, minute, date, moon phase
band: 22 mm, leather, folding clasp

ref. moon meteorite
case: steel, diameter 43 mm, height 12,4 mm, 5 atm, sapphire glass
movement: manufacture caliber sw-11, automatic, swiss made
functions: hour, minute, date, moon phase
dial: genuine meteorite stone
band: 22 mm, leather, folding clasp

ref. moon galaxy & galaxy signs of zodiac
case: steel, diameter 43 mm, height 12,4 mm, 5 atm, sapphire glass
movement: manufacture caliber sw-11, automatic, swiss made
functions: hour, minute, date, moon phase
dial: gold stone
band: 22 mm, leather, folding clasp

ref. moon landscape hand made
case: steel, diameter 43 mm, height 12,4 mm, 5 atm, sapphire glass
movement: manufacture caliber sw-11, automatic, swiss made
functions: hour, minute, date, moon phase
dial: 925/- sterling silver (hand made)
band: 22 mm, leather, folding clasp

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Thursday, May 10, 2012

Rolex USA awarded damages against counterfeiter

Rolex USA is starting to crackdown on counterfeiters blatantly imitating and selling its products for huge profits on the internet. It has won nearly $160,000 in court after taking the owner of two websites selling fake Rolex watches to court in New York.

Gabriel Alvarez had been running deviousdesires.net and deviousdesires.com that sold fake Rolex watches for about $100 as well as other counterfeit goods masquerading as products from brands including Breitling, Armani, Bulgari and Chanel. The site openly advertised that the goods it sold were fakes.

Rolex USA first filed a lawsuit against Alvarez in January of this year and last week in court it won a financial settlement of nearly £100,000 in damages and fees. It also secured an injunction against the sites which a judge ruled must now be cancelled or transferred to Rolex, and that any remaining counterfeit products bearing Rolex branding must be destroyed.

How to tell a Rolex from a replica

1. The sapphire crystal
Rolex watches are fitted with a sapphire crystal (the glass face of the watch) that can only be scratched with a diamond.

2. The date window
The ‘cyclops’ date window in a real version is dead-centred above the number.

3. The attention to detail
The quality of the printing on the dial should be perfect, with indicators and type evenly spaced with no fuzzy edges.

4. The movement
A genuine Rolex movement sweeps smoothly at about 28,800 revs per hour – each second is broken down into eight steps. Even when a fake Rolex uses a Swiss-made movement, the second hand’s ticking is usually visibly jerky.

5. The logo
Where ‘Swiss made’ appears, the brand’s logo is laser-etched into the crystal. In a genuine Rolex, this is made up of hundreds of dots set at different heights throughout the crystal (so it doesn’t create a weakness in the glass) and as such is barely visible. To see it clearly you have to look through a loupe.

6. The bracelet
If you remove a Rolex bracelet you should find the watch’s case number and model number engraved on the side at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock.

How to tell a Rolex guide courtesy of reporter Damon Syson

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