Wednesday, March 9, 2011
When watch maker Martin Braun's eponymous brand name hit the skids as a result of heavy losses in the Franck Muller Group it left one of the most talented watchmaker’s in Switzerland without a watch marque he could call his own. Legal red tape denied him the right to use his own name again as it had already become the property of the Franck Muller Group. But last month he bounced back with the backing of financier Antoine Meier and launched the new manufacture Antoine Martin. Now a new watch collection, leading with a perpetual calendar watch, has been launched just in time for Baselworld 2011.
The new perpetual calendar, officially called Perpetual Calendar QP01.700.1 (not very memorable guys!), is certainly an impressive showcase piece; an intricate interplay of polishing and satin finishing and features detachable strap lugs. The recesses are polished to a high gloss, while the upper parts remain matte. A major design element of an Antoine Martin watch is going to be the crown, which in this instance echoes Bauhaus design. The case alone comprises 85 individual components.
The watch is powered by a modified Swiss lever escapement called HPE (High Performance Escapement) that includes silicium to ensure an increased energy yield; it also features a free-sprung balance spring, which apparently is a must have in attaining the Seal of Geneva. The manually wound calibre AM 39.001 has a power reserve of six days.
The guilloché dial features a new style of applied numerals and creates a visually powerful face. The unmissable date at 6-o-clock is divided into two windows. The day and date are placed vertically with a leap year indicator at 12-o-clock. There’s also an AM/PM subdial at 3-o-clock just in case your morning after the night before was so good you don’t know whether it’s morning or afternoon.
The Perpetual Calendar will be available in a rose gold 18K, white gold 18K, or black DLC-coated stainless steel case.
Not known at this time, but if you have to ask, well, you probably can’t afford it.