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Friday, December 14, 2012

Pre-SIHH 2013: Rotonde de Cartier – Panther with Granulation


Pre-SIHH 2013, Cartier have released previews of two exciting new watches. These will be officially unveiled at SIHH 2013 on January 21st next year. 

The first watch to be given a pre-SIHH preview from Cartier is the fabulous Rotonde de Cartier: Panther with Granulation.

The watch forms part of the Cartier d'Art line which showcases various artistic crafts, usually as part of the dial decoration. Here the dial is decorated with a panther created from tiny gold granules. 

This stunning watch relies on an ancient and immensely time consuming craft designed to achieve a sparkling, shimmering reproduction, on this occasion of a Panther in 22k gold. The most famous examples of this type of craftsmanship are of priceless Etruscan granulation applied objects dating back to the first century.

The reinterpretation of this millennia-old artistic craft is part of a desire to bring rare,
sometimes forgotten crafts back to life, which Cartier adapts and renders in its own unique way.

The process


Each tiny 22k gold ball is hand applied, one at a time to build up the picture. The gold balls are cut from a thread and then heated, applied and fused to the watch base. This achieves a lustrous sparkle from several angles.

The case is 42mm and made in yellow gold. Not surprisingly considering the massive effort each watch takes to complete, only 20 of the Rotonde de Cartier will be made. 


Case: 18-carat yellow gold set with 306 brilliant-cut diamonds for 3.63 carats
Dial: 22-carat yellow gold, granulation with panther motif
Hands: Breguet style in blued steel
Crown: beaded, 18-carat yellow gold, set with a diamond
Strap: semi-matt black alligator skin

Double adjustable folding clasp,
18-carat yellow gold set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds for 0.42 carats
Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9601 MC
Case back: sapphire crystal 

Numbered limited series of 20 just pieces.

Photography by: Fabien Sarazin © Cartier 2012

Pre-SIHH 2013: Calibre de Cartier Chronograph.

Pre-SIHH 2013, Cartier have released previews of two exciting new watches. These will be officially unveiled at SIHH 2013 on January 21st next year. 

The second of the watches is the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph. The collection will features Cartier’s new in-house manufactured self-winding 1904-CH MC calibre which features a column-wheel chronograph with a central vertical clutch. It has double barrels, which provides more consistent torque and a 48-hour power reserve.

The Calibre de Cartier Chronograph features a 42 mm case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. 

The watch will be available in stainless steel or gold, with or without gems. A sapphire case back allows a view of the beautifully finished movement which consists of Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) on the bridges and oscillating weight and circular graining on the mainplate. 

The dial employs Roman numerals for the top half of the dial and then indexes on the lower part. The hour and minute hands are sword shaped and are coated with luminous paint. The three date panoramic date aperture now sits at 6 o’clock to make room for the chronograph subdial (previous Cartier de Calibre time only models have the date at 3 o’clock).

The chronograph pushers are flat and there’s a 7 sided screwed crown with a sapphire on the gold model. Water-resistance is 100 metres and the watch comes on a choice of a steel or gold bracelet or a leather strap. The pierced lugs allow for easy removal of the bracelet or strap with a screwdriver.

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